A few weeks ago, while pre-riding the course for the Tour duh Charlotte (updated info on the race in 1.5 weeks BTW), I experienced a flat. I pulled my out my tube and proceeded to fix it, but found that my tube had a hole in it. Meh.
When I went home, I got all forensic on the situation.
My last flat was probably almost a year ago at the Trans-Sylvania Epic. That means this particular tube coulda been stored on a bike in a tight bundle for more than a year. Dunno. Really.
Many of you know that I'm quite the tight bundler. I'm an expert in purging the air and wrapping the tube in many rubber bands and or sheaths made from old 26 X 2.2-2.5 tubes. I like my bundles tidy... what can I say.
Upon inspection, I found the hole right at the corner of the first and most tightest inner fold. I have now made multiple running changes to how I do things.
Tube on the right, lightweight .60mm butyl rubber tube, refolded for the sake of demonstration, not quite as tight as I normally get it, but you get the point.
Tube on the left, .90mm thick butyl rubber, loaded into Race 3 Strap, ready to ride.
You can see the sharp fold in the tube on the right. I've always known that thin tubes are fragile, but the weight weenie/neat freak in me ALWAYS carried them. I've known they are susceptible to getting holes in them, either in a saddle bag, hydration pack, or strapped to the bike. I told myself I would check them from time to time... you know. I didn't always do that.
Four changes future forward.
1.For day to day use, I will be carrying the .90mm thick tubes.
2. I will not be bundling them so tight. It's not as important to bundle them anyways. I got into the habit to keep them neat and because I've known people to strap on a tube with no rubber bands only to have them unravel in wet conditions.
3. I don't need to bundle them so tight because of the Tube Tarp.
Not only does it keep the tube clean, it keeps it bundled, making all my banding and sheathing pointless. I wasn't gonna run them when I first got them, but now I get it. All bundles get tarped. Also of note, the shock cords on the Race Strap 3 aid in bundle retention. I've found it takes much less reefing to secure the load to the saddle rails.
4. Race tubes. I'm still going to use them. They'll be tossed loosely in a drawer, under my work bench, in a dark place until I need them. Then I'll roll them up, stick them in a Tube Tarp, use them for a race, and then return them to storage.
I just wasted too much time searching something Sheldon Brown wrote about tube storage... couldn't find it. Something about not folding them... oh well.
*LATE EDIT: In the interest of science, I pulled out my three other race-ready bundled .60mm tubes (two were strapped to saddles, one in a drawer), unfurled them, and inflated them. None of them lost air over the course of three days.
I thought I'd have more time this morning to mention something else stupid I did recently, but I've wasted too much time with this PSA. This is the last post of this week. Tomorrow is my day off from blogging. On Thursday, I am taking the day off work in order to ride Pisgah with a bunch of yinzers from Pee-Yay. Thursday night is dinner with Mike McCormack, promoter of the Breck Epic (who I think it going to literally twist my arm to come this year). On Friday, I'll be sleeping off the sushi hangover and after work, I'll be heading out to NAHBS events... nonstop... from then until Sunday.
And since I won't be back until next week...
If you want a Faster Mustache kit, you must order it by the end of next week.
Kurt was nice enough to design some sans sleeves for the more gun-toting racer bois as well.
See you Monday, unless I see you here first:
I don’t know of too many cycling gloves that are truly designed with the urban cyclist in mind, so WOHO’s Ninja Ninja gloves may be the first of their kind. They’re simple, functional and good looking.
Personally, I like simple gloves, especially for city riding. I don’t like tons of logos, nor do I need rubberized “armor” on the fingers. I just want something that keeps my sweaty hands from slipping off of the grips. And unless it’s below freezing, I prefer lightweight, breathable gloves. These fit the bill.
The Ninja Ninja gloves feature smooth, breathable Lycra shell with a synthetic suede palm material. The palms feature a non-slip silicon coating and SBR foam padding which feels thin until you grab the handlebar, then it feels quite substantial. Overall they’re a very comfortable pair of gloves. I also like that these don’t use a Velcro wrist closure—unless it’s a compression strap for wrist support, it just seems unnecessary.
One of the major features of the long-fingered Ninja Ninja gloves is the use of touch-screen friendly fabric on the index finger tip and thumb. In fact, this may be my favorite feature. It’s a simple convenience that’s probably going to be ubiquitous in a few years. Another interesting feature that’s only on the fingerless version are small pull tabs on the middle two fingers. This seems a little less necessary to me, personally, but might make some people quite happy.
I do feel that the Ninja Ninja gloves run a tiny bit small. So you’ll want to double check with WOHO’s size chart, and perhaps order one size up if you feel that you’ve got rather large hands.
The Ninja Ninja Deluxe gloves come in a variety of solid colors, all accented with color-matched elastic bands with a subtle silicon logo. The long fingered gloves retail for $31 ($28 for short fingered) and come in sizes S-XXL. Check out www.wohobike.com
o cosa sento? davvero c’è una mostra fotografica dentro al vigorelli? allora esiste!
i dati son tutti sul flyer, inutile che vi abbuffo. ci vediamo là, sarò col vestito della domenica che quello della comunione non mi entra piu’ maledetto crispy bacon.
This diagram shows a stem in its downward-facing orientation. In the next photo, notice the differences in reach and height with the stem rotated upward. Diagram: Lennard Zinn
Sometimes the Tech FAQ mailbag fills up with a central theme (most recently the minutia of drivetrain cross-compatibility). Other times, it feels more like a grab bag. Today is the latter and we’ll look at a little bit of everything, culminating in one reader’s questions about his flexible carbon frame and updating the head tube on a classic titanium frame.Will this SRAM work with that Shimano?
I just swapped out my rear derailleur for a SRAM X7 long cage 9-speed. (Previously I had a Shimano Tiagra 9-speed.) I tried to use my current 9-speed Shimano Ultegra STI shifter, but it’s not working, and from reading online it seems like they’re not compatible. Is there an STI shifter that I can use with this rear derailleur?
No, there is not a Shimano shifter that will work with this derailleur; only a SRAM shifter will work with it (or a Campagnolo with class-B functionality). Before replacing that SRAM derailleur with a Shimano derailleur, however, you could try some of these cable-routing solutions. It’s possible one might work acceptably and save you some money.
Campagnolo 11-speed Ergo shifters index perfectly with Shimano 9-speed derailleurs and cassettes. On the bike, the shifters are Chorus 11-speed Ultrashift and all the rest of the drivetrain is 9-speed Shimano. Since I replaced the original 9-speed STI shifters (which were starting to jam when attempting shifts) with the Ergos, I haven’t been able to detect any shortcomings in the rear shifting at all, and the Ergo shifters have the added advantage that the front shifter has more trim positions for banishing chain rub.
Thanks for letting us know your experience.
I have a set of Mad Fiber wheels where the hub cannot be changed out. The hub is 10-speed and compatible with Shimano/SRAM. I recently moved up to Shimano 11-speed and was wondering if I could use an 11-speed hub but remove one ring so it would fit on the hub. I would use spacers to fill in the gap. I understand that I would have an extra shift at either the top or bottom but I can live with that. Have you tried this solution and if so, what was the outcome? If it didn’t work, do you have any creative solutions? I was just wondering before I try it.
I did that for a while, and it worked fine. That wheel very likely has the guts of a White Industries hub inside; you might see if you can get an 11-speed freehub body from WI.
Given your expertise in fit issues and frame-building, I thought I would run a problem by you: what size frame should someone ride if they have long legs and a short torso? My floor-to-crotch measurement is 92cm, and I was told that my torso measurement puts me solidly in the 56cm range on the Specialized chart. Having legs for a 60cm frame and a torso for a 56cm frame makes buying off the rack a compromise. Frames that are 60cm are too long. When I bought my first road bike three years ago, I bought a 58cm road frame and eventually put a 90mm stem on it because it felt too long. The reach still feels a little long to me (probably, in part, because my saddle is high), and the short stem undoubtedly affects the bikes handling/steering characteristics. Is this the right way to go, or should I get a 56cm frame next time?
If you can get the 56cm frame with an uncut steering tube on the fork, that would be preferable. Flip the stem up, and put some spacers under it as well, not to exceed 100mm (four inches). And remember that when you flip a stem up, it effectively shortens its reach as well.
Check out the two drawing above, which illustrate what happens when you flip the stem up versus having it flipped down. As you can see, with a 140mm 6-degree stem, flipping it up raises the handlebar by 24mm and shortens the reach by 10mm. If it were an 8-degree stem, the height increase would be 32mm, and the reach reduction would be 13mm. If it were a 17-degree stem, the height increase would be 67mm and the reach would be shortened by 27mm. Those height and length differences would be proportionately less with shorter stems, of course.
You’re big, big guy. Where can I find road shoe booties that fit a size 47 shoe? Trying to get typical booties over my shoes take more energy than the ride.
I have no problem getting Grip Grab booties over my size 47 shoes, be they road or MTB shoes. And for less cold weather, I regularly use DeFeet Slipstream sock-type shoe covers over them.
I wanted to ask your opinion on updating an older titanium bike versus replacing a cracked Masi 3v. I have a six-year-old Masi3v, which Masi has declined a warranty on. Bike only has 6,000 miles on it, but has developed small cracks under the clear coat. Bike developed a high-speed shimmy over the last year. Since you’re a frame builder, I have just a couple of questions.
Is it possible that the Masi was only “good” for 6,000 miles? I hate to think we have gotten to the point where race bike lifespan is that short. Looks like I’m going to put an older Litespeed Ultimate back into service. I’ve been told that it will be like trying to convert a 69 Camaro into a 2014 Corvette.
Second question: Has frame technology changed that much? I was thinking of replacing the head tube. It currently has a 1-inch. Is that even a logical upgrade? Bike will be masters raced by formerly competitive 52-year-old. I was also told a lot of current newer wheels don’t really match up well with older technology. I was riding Zipp 404s, both tubulars and clinchers. I’m assuming that comment was due to widths of rims getting wider now than 12 years ago. So, is it worth the time to upgrade older Ti?
The cracks in the paint and/or clear coat (that’s what you mean by “under the clear coat,” correct?) indicate something is moving further than the clear coat can flex. Since carbon fiber construction done properly is generally immune to fatigue failure, I would guess if you’ve not crashed it or otherwise overloaded it that the cracking and loss of stiffness you’re experiencing is either bonding between molded carbon pieces that is breaking down and moving, or it’s delamination between carbon layers.
I can’t imagine that your wheels will not work in the Litespeed. I assume the frame has 130mm rear spacing. If so, the wheel should fit in fine. The 404s are not wider than wheels the chainstays and seatstays of a decade or so ago could handle.
Yes, you could have the head tube replaced by a titanium framebuilder, either with a standard head tube for a 1-⅛-inch steering tube, or with an oversized one for a tapered steering tube, either 1.5×1.125-inch, or 1.25×1.125-inch. That will be a costly upgrade, so you’d have to decide whether it’s worth it to you or not. Personally, I have a hard time imagining that the modest increase in performance of your old Litespeed with an upgraded fork would be worth the money.
Our photographer Ellen big check her flick , really nice work >>每次FGGT路騎，最辛苦的就是我們的攝影師大大了，一邊一騎車還要背著大包小包的攝影器具一邊幫大家拍攝著! 辛苦了啊~~~ 我們最愛的大大~
photo by FGGT CICIY
James Cracknell Q&A: training tips for swimming and cycling
In terms of advice, let's start with cycling - partly because I've ridden down the roads that await you, and party because I'm not even the best swimmer in my family (my mother-in-law is a swimming coach, my brother-in-law represented Team GB at the ...
Toolbox: The Schizophrenic Man...
I figure that, even on a good week during summer, solo riding still constitutes at least 60% of my cycling time, with my main group rides being the Tuesday night club races and the Sunday hammerfests. This is infinitely better than in Halifax, where my ...
Talk about contrasts!
Of course, the big temperature swing means that snow is wilting like a flower under a heat lamp. Rivulets of water were streaming across frozen turf and ice all over town yesterday, making for large, deep pools and slush with dirty crap from Winter laying on the bits of pavement newly exposed. Mud- yes, that stuff we haven't seen for several months, has started to rear its nasty little head now. The mixture of Spring and Winter always means "slop season" is underway.
I was ready this year. Avid readers of this blog may recall my fender frenzy one weekend not long ago. The Fargo gen 1 got the full drive train, fender, re-cabling treatment this time, so it has been pressed into duty as the first line of defense against slop. I had one interesting challenge with the drive train.
The front derailleur wasn't operating as it should, and that because the cable wasn't getting pulled enough to put the chain into the big ring. But the beauty of the Retroshifters was revealed in this situation. I simply re-clocked the bar end shifter and that was that. Plenty of cable pull, and I have a fully functional triple chain ring crankset on the bike now.
So, bring on the slop! I'm ready for that and Spring as well.
I shot this photo of Devon Lawson doing a double tire ride along this rubber tube that was loosely attached to some wall in the Mission. There’s nothing like a Burrito from Los Coyotes to give you the energy of an ox and the strength of ten men.
Eleven Inc. Move Stunt from Christopher Newman on Vimeo.
Check out this great video of the MASH crew helping out marketing agency Eleven Inc. with their move.
來看看MASH 幫Eleven Inc 這家公司拍的宣傳影片，真是棒透了啊~~~